[Sator]

The video here is worth watching. Notice the way they dissociate themselves from any accusations of having a rigid house style. They do say they put of drape into the chest, but I can't see any on any of the examples in the video, which tends to suggest they are being a bit sloppy by loosely using the term as a generic term for a full cut chest.

http://www.telegraph...Savile-Row.html

[Der Zuschneider]

Actually you are right the drape nowadays are a term of bringing back the full chest.

When you see fashion shows, the so called university designers construct ugly ‘Panzer-Front’-chests from 1920 and before.
There must be a small chest roll in front of the ‘Armvortritslinie’ this is the common drape of the 60thies.

Very nice movie, worth watching.

This post has been edited by Der Zuschneider: 09 February 2010 - 01:42 AM

[Sator]

Der Zuschneider, on 09 February 2010 - 01:33 AM, said:

When you see fashion shows, the so called university designers construct ugly ‘Panzer-Front’-chests from 1920 and before.

Add to it the way they cause distortion by trying to suppress the waist by taking too much out of the front dart. Next they narrow the skirt down too much to create a very anoretic and shapeless looking coat. Then they take the CAD trouser block and narrow that right down too, even though the block isn't actually suited to genuinely closely fitted trousers which require a specific rounding out of the calf for example. The factory also doesn't know how to do the intensive ironwork required for extremely fitted trousers either. All in all, the results are a total mess.