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#37 bespokecollars

bespokecollars

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Posted 20 April 2011 - 07:31 AM

I don't know why the title of the book is called "casual clothes" because the shirt sloper is perfectly suited to shirts of all kinds. I suspect that the title of the book may have been forced onto the authors by the publisher.


Hi Sator,

Firstly, thanks for posting this publication. ALL resources, no matter if one agrees with them or not, are great for helping a shirt maker develop their standard.

I agree with you on the title of the book. However, I'd say these days the line between what is formal or classic or casual has become a little more blurred than it was in 1985. I would also say that considering the girth and cut of this shirt that it was the precursor to what we call the 'slim fit' today.

I note that the pattern results in the following girth eases: chest 4", waist 6", seat 7".

Personally I would not dare to offer these girth eases to a client I have never met in person. I prefer to make my slim fit shirts 6"/8"/9" for those that order from me online. Although, for clients I meet in person I have slimmed the shirt right down to 4"/6"/7".

Something I really don't like about this pattern is the armpit shaping. I prefer a slightly higher pit with a more flattened, evened out pit. I guess the styles change according to time and trend.

Over all though this is a valuable resource to those wanting to make a close fitting shirt for our more "athletic" figures.

Have you seen anyone publish or re-print it yet?

Regards,
Rhyce
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#38 bespokecollars

bespokecollars

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Posted 20 April 2011 - 09:27 AM

I've made a small draft of the concerned areas/original and modified version to see in numbers what I would change. The modification is an example and relates to draft in size 38 but could be applied to any size.

Here they are :


NOTE : very strange is the fact that the front neckhole moves up from size 40 upwards (due to the fact that the back length stays the same but the "front neck level" value continues to increase).

So what I would change is
- to raise the back shoulder pitch line by 3/8'' (Amateursarto : actually the back shoulder pitch isn't 1 1/2'' but that PLUS the back neck raise that lies between 3/4'' and 1 1/8''!!! And the front shoulder slope is even much steeper!).
- to raise the front shoulder pitch by 7/8'' (that's actually the point where there's a real problem with this draft in my opinion - the shoulder notch is located very much towards the front and once the sleeve is set in, both the sleeve and the back pull the front shoulder backwards)
- to raise the scye level by at least 3/4'' to maintain the scye circumference. But as I said, I think it can really be smaller/shallower than in the draft.


Cheers
David (who is happy because he just got a new sewing machine on ebay... finally something to rely on for the reeeeeally thick fabrics!)


Hi David,

Great notes on the shoulder pitch. It's amazing how many shirt patterns I've come across that pitch the shoulder far too low.

I wanted to pick your brain on a topic.

I find 4" ease in a chest too narrow....and I want to make the Onishenko pattern with a 6" chest ease. Making that particular adjustment is easy. But what about the Front Chest and Back shoulder blade measurments - do you think there ought to be any adjustment of those?

I don't mind the close fitting nature of the shoulder area of the original pattern, but 4" in the chest is too risky for me.

What do you think?

Rhyce

p.s. Hows the new sewer going? Did you upgrade from a domestic to an industrial?

Edited by bespokecollars, 20 April 2011 - 09:29 AM.





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